Skin Maintenance and Aging Gracefully
In year 2023, the standard for beauty has never been higher. We live in a world of perfectly curated social media accounts, airbrushed filters and the normalization of so many beauty procedures meant to smoothen, tighten, lift enlargen, etc. There is nothing wrong with any of this, however let us not forget the natural process that is aging and that it is inevitable. I am here to remind you that there are ways to embrace aging that don’t involve fighting the process all together.
A few important things to remember: Aging happens to everyone. You cannot turn back the clock, but you can make decisions today that will set you up for success in the future. You are beautiful and valued regardless of your age.
It’s undeniable that changes start to occur in the body as time progresses. What about the skin? There are two factors at play: Intrinsic aging and Extrinsic aging. Intrinsic aging speaks to internal physiological factors that are chronological such as the natural degradation of collagen and elastin in the dermis. This can also refer to genetically predisposed conditions that may manifest as time goes on. Extrinsic factors refer to lifestyle choices and external factors such as sun exposure and radiation. Photoaging refers to skin changes caused by chronic exposure to UV light. Other extrinsic factors may include cigarette smoking, pollution, dietary choices and excessive alcohol consumption.
How does the skin change as it ages? As mentioned above, as the skin ages, it begins to lose its original structure. One of the first noticeable changes is the appearance of expression lines. This can begin to happen to women and men in their 20’s and 30’s. Expression lines are the result of repetitive facial movements that reduce the skin’s elasticity and crease the skin. Over time, there’s also a breakdown of collagen and elastin and a thinning of the adipose layer (subcutaneous fatty tissue) that cushions the skin. This can cause sagging and wrinkling. Over time, skin cell turnover slows down, causing more dead and dry skin to accumulate on the surface, leading to dull looking skin. There’s also a decrease in lipids (natural oils) which leads to dryness. Other noticeable changes in the skin can include an increase in hyperpigmentation from photoaging, an increase in redness and inflammation in the skin, and the accumulation of other skin conditions including hyperkeratosis, seborrheic keratosis, cherry angiomas etc.
Pores may appear larger as they begin to lose elasticity and the skin may appear thinner in some areas, especially around the eyes where you may notice darker circles and more pronounced under eye bags.
So what can we do to embrace the changes that come with age? First of all, don’t panic. Remember that this is a natural process that happens to everyone. Next, let’s talk about your home care regimen. It might be time to change things up and invite products that have more benefits for preventing and treating signs of aging. Everyone’s skin is different and skincare routines are not a “one size fits all”, but I have some products I like to recommend for mature skin. Lastly we will talk about treatment suggestions.
Here are some of my home care tips. The right cleanser is essential. Because the skin’s lipid barrier becomes more depleted as we age, I suggest a cream based cleanser. I love Dermalogica’s Skin Resurfacing Cleanser because it’s a creamy consistency and contains lactic acid which is hydrating and brightening for the skin. Next I recommend a replenishing toner to hydrate and balance the skin’s PH. Toners also carry hydrating products deeper into the skin. I recommend Dermalogica’s Antioxidant Hydramist which is packed full of antioxidants and peptides to promote firming and brightening of the skin. One of the most important factors to address in aging skin is the decrease of skin cell turnover. This is what causes the skin to look dull. Extra skin cell buildup actually prevents moisturizing ingredients from penetrating the skin’s surface. I recommend familiarizing yourself with a retinol product. Dermalogica’s new Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum can be applied once a day (in the evening). It’s a high performance retinol that resurfaces the skin while minimizing the appearance of pores and wrinkles. It’s surprisingly gentle and works to balance the skin and restore the lipid barrier. During the day, I like to recommend a serum that has vitamin C, such as the Biolumin-C serum. This serum helps to combat free radical activity, protecting the skin from environmental factors such as pollution and UV rays. Another serum that may be used for signs of aging is the Neck Fit Contour serum to address sagging, wrinkling and discoloration of the neck. For moisturizer, I recommend a day cream in addition to a night cream. SPF is your BFF, so don’t skip out! SPF is one of the most important ingredients you can incorporate to prevent future signs of aging. I recommend Dynamic Skin Recovery with SPF 50. Make sure to use SPF every single day, even if it’s cloudy. You would be surprised at how many UV rays you are exposed to even when you can’t see the sun. For nighttime, I recommend an emollient moisturizer packed full of nourishing ingredients to keep the skin hydrated as you sleep. Dermalogica has many suitable moisturizers for nighttime including Super Rich Repair, Intensive Moisture Balance and Power Bright Overnight Cream. Lastly, don’t forget the eyes and lips! These areas of the face are very delicate and require a little extra attention. For eyes I recommend Multivitamin Power Firm because it addresses fine lines, firmness and elasticity and uneven texture. For lips, I recommend Renewal Lip Complex which is a 2x/day lip treatment which deeply conditions, hydrates and minimizes lines, utilizing nourishing botanicals and polypeptides. In addition, I recommend sleeping on a satin or silk pillowcase to reduce skin creasing caused by other fabrics. I also recommend sleeping with a humidifier in winter to keep the skin as hydrated as possible when the weather is cold and dry.
There are various treatments you may benefit from if your main focus is anti aging. Getting a professional treatment every 4-6 weeks improves skin health, function and appearance. Treatment enhancements that you can add to your facial to boost your results may include Dermaplaning, LED Light Therapy and Nano Needling. All three treatments are unique to one other, yet each treatment stimulates the lower levels of the skin to produce more collagen and elastin. Even though amazing results can be seen from one treatment, what really stands the test of time is consistency. Results are cumulative, so the more often you get treatments, the more significant your results will be. Getting consistent treatments is kind of like pressing the pause button on the aging process.
My hope is that you embrace aging by investing in your skin. It’s a form of self love and self respect. I look forward to guiding you in your skincare journey!